Sandra et Jean-Noël en Orient

Chine, de Lijiang à Shangri-La

Pour aller à Lijiang, haut lieu touristique, nous prenons le train, en dernière classe. La sncf n'a qu'à bien se tenir, le service est impeccable, et les trains confortables.

Le moins que l'on puisse dire à propos de cette ville, c'est qu'elle est envahie par le tourisme de masse, alors même si l'endroit est charmant, on se dit que l'on ne va pas rester longtemps. Après une petite journée de visite, on décide de partir rapidement vers Qiaotou, point de départ de la randonnée dans les gorges du saut du tigre.

Le premier jour, on ne marche que 6 km, et l'ont s'arrête pour la nuit à Naxi family guesthouse. C'est une super étape, la vue est sublime, la bouffe extra et les chambres nickeles. On y fait la rencontre de Marie et Arnau, un couple franco-espagnol, ainsi que de Jay, un voyageur chinois, avec qui on continuera les jours d'après. Le deuxième jour, on use un peu plus les semelles, avec une vingtaine de bornes dans un paysage grandiose. Le troisième jour, on descend dans le fond des gorges, tout le monde souffle fort à la remontée !

Cette randonnée est à faire, et le fond des gorges est à ne manquer sous aucun prétexte (on pense à Marie et Matthieu, les enfants peuvent voyager à dos de mules pour 150rmb/j/mule). Il faut l'avouer aussi, il faut payer pour le moindre sentier emprunté. Il vaut mieux descendre tôt le matin quand on est à pied.

Le bus pour Shangri-La est vers 15h, on mange chez "Tina's" Guesthouse avant, et on a eu tord. La bouffe est horrible, le service est à l'image de la bouffe, et la patronne est pathétique. Bref, fuyez, pauvres fous !! Gorge view servent quand à eux une excellente nourriture (demandez le poulet aux champignons et poivre du sichuan, super).

Shangri-La, de son ancien nom Zhongdian est, ou plutôt était aussi un haut lieu touristique, avant que la moitié de la vieille ville ne brule en janvier dernier. Du coup, d'un point de vu très cynique, cette ville est beaucoup plus vivable que Lijiang...
Les gens sont beaucoup plus souriants, et il est très facile de sortir de la ville pour se balader. On y a loué des vélos, et on à fait environ 40 km sur un plateau de steppes entouré de montagnes, le tout à 3200 mètres d'altitude. Bref, on reste sportif !! Vraiment, ce n'est pas dur, seule la montée de la fin est un peu pénible. Si vous avez envie d'une pizza passer chez Helen's pizza, très bons et Marco le patron est très sympa et riche en conseils.
Les bords du Tibet nous ont donné envie d'en voir plus, nous choisissons donc une route un peu retirée pour rejoindre Chengdu (Sichuan). On vous raconte ça plus tard.

Jean-Noël et Sandra

Commentaires (16) Trackbacks (0)
  1. Réponses du quizz : je sais pas et c’est moche. Je gagne quoi? Un p’tit yak?

  2. Hello ! Nous avons réussi à passer la frontière entre la Myanmar et la Chine. Sacré exploit … Nous sommes donc sur vos traces puisque nous sommes à Shangri-La après être passé par Dali, Lijiang et les gorges du saut du tigre. Malgré les mules on nous a deconseillé la rando avec les enfants. Du coup Matthieu l’a faite, en partie, seul. Nous avons dormi chez Tina et on ne peut que confirmer vos dires ! Shangri-La c’est la grosse déception pour nous. Le feu a vraiment ravagé la ville et il reste bien peu de choses. Faut dire que nous sommes limités avec les enfants et la rando vélo sera pour une autre fois. J’aurais aimé rallier Chengdu par votre route mais trop long et compliqué pour nous. Du coup ce sera Kunming et Hong Kong dans quelques jours. Vous y serez combien de temps ?
    A plus
    Ps: c’est Alice et non Marie Lol

    • Coucou, désolée de répondre aussi tard. On est rentré plus tôt que prévu en France, on était trop fatigués pour profiter. Et vous, où en êtes vous ?
      Bisous à toute la famille
      Désolé pour l’erreur.

      Sandra et Jeanno

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